The old port of Dinan, nestling below the heart of the old town.

 

A typical scene in the heart of old Dinan where you can amble through the cobbled streets and admire the 500 year old buildings....and shop and eat in them too!!


SOME INFORMATION ABOUT DINAN

Dinan is ideally positioned on the banks of the river Rance and is about 25 minutes from the  channel port of St. Malo or around 2 hours from Caen. The town of Dinan is widely described in the many guidebooks written on Brittany and France and I shall not attempt to replicate the detail that you will find by looking at these books yourselves! What you will discover is that all of the literature has in common a unanimous view on the incomparable merits of this beautifully preserved medieval town:

A gem of a town, one of the most attractive and interesting in Brittany and not to be rushed through on any account.

Dinan, an old fortress town, with its medieval battlement, steep cobbled streets and leaning houses overlooking the Rance Valley. Miss it at your peril.

Old Dinan is densely packed with historic buildings, but it is not dauntingly large, and is neatly enclosed within its 3 kilometres of ramparts, so you can easily tour it on foot.

Perhaps the most appealing thing about Dinan is that it is very much a living town with a thriving and friendly local population; people who live, work and eat within its walls.

Eating and Drinking

The town is full of notable restaurants of all descriptions and prices and most are inside ancient buildings which have retained their historic character. Seafood is excellent, plentiful and cheap. You can eat a 3 or 4 course meal including a dozen oysters for less than the cost of the oysters in most English restaurants! If you fancy home cooking why not try a dozen or so shelled scallops from the market on Thursdays or from the fishmongers throughout the week: 3 to 4 euros per kilo  in Dinan, but a King's ransom in the UK! If seafood is not your choice do not worry. The traditional creperies, pizza places and traditional restaurants will satisfy every palate and budget. If you want to eat up market there are restaurants to match the finest in France, and if you want a break from French food, a range of ethnic restaurants [Algerian, Chinese, Vietnamese, and Indian] can be found. If you work up a thirst there are tea shops and coffee houses in abundance, and a variety of bars to suit most tastes. All of these establishments blend comfortably into the historical atmosphere of the town and because the town has a life of its own, most are open all year. This is one of the reasons why a travel writer puts Dinan:

Top of my list for an out of season break. 

Some Things to See and Do

Much pleasure is to be gained from just meandering around the largely traffic-free streets of  the old town. Walk around the ramparts and stroll up and down the Promenade des Petit Fosses. Visit the tourist office near the castle in the town. Previous visitors will remember that this used to be in the 16th century former hotel in the rue de l'horloge. The road is named after the nearby Tour de l'horloge, a late 15th century quadrangular clock tower that you can climb in summer to gain an excellent view of Dinan and its surroundings. Spot the names of the other streets named after medieval trades which filled the town 500 years ago such as the rue de la Poissonerie [fishmonger]; the rue de la Ferronnerie [ironmonger]; the place des Cordeliers [Franciscan friars]; and the place des  Merciers [haberdashers], where the highly regarded restaurant, La Mere Pouchel has the most famous of the many grand timber frame facades.

 Look out for the Chateau and the Musee de Dinan and don't miss the Jardin Anglais [English Garden]. This is on the site of an old cemetery behind the 12th century church of St. Sauveur and provides a cool and pleasant spot with stunning views of the Rance and the old port and bridge of Dinan in the valley below.

All of this is just a few minutes walk from the house in the rue de Petit Fort which together with the rue de Jerzual connects the centre of the old town with the old port of Dinan. Patricia Fenn describes the walking route from the Jardin Anglais down to the port as:

One of the most beguiling thoroughfares in Brittany.

You go via the rues du Rempart and Michel, into the rues du Jerzual and Petit Fort, winding through the 500 year old Jerzual Gate, between the half-timbered houses right down to the water.

There are boats to see and restaurants to savour at the port and if you wish you can take a river cruise or a boat all the way down the Rance to St. Malo. Alternatively, you can cross the gothic bridge and stroll upstream, under the viaduct and along the towpath to Lehon. This pleasant walk takes about forty minutes and you will find a 12th century abbey and castle, a bar/restaurant and an open air swimming pool within the village.

Back in Dinan along the banks of the Rance, the home of the artist Yvonne Jean -Haffen, the Maison d'artiste de la Grande Vigne, is well worth a visit.

A short drive from Dinan brings you to the coastal resort of Dinard and a series of beautiful beaches to the west. This is the Cote D'emeraude [Emerald Coast] where opportunities for safe bathing and bracing cliff walks abound. Lovers of rugged coastlines will not be disappointed with Cap Frehel, where the high cliffs of schist and pink sandstone overhang the deep green water to provide a memorable sight.

For more views of Dinan visit: Digital Gallery Plus

 

REFERENCES

[1] French Entr 5: Brittany by Patricia Fenn ISBN 0-907621-54-6

[2] Globetrotter Travel Guide: Brittany by Max Wooldridge ISBN 185974129-0

[3] Cadogan: Brittany by Phillipe Barbour ISBN 1-86011-044-4